Italia Bella

By Tin Thomas

The Vatican Museum was awesome, the Colosseum dramatic...

The treasures of Florence were beautiful, Pisa’s tower amazing. Intriguing was the collection of leaning church towers in Venice, and the canals. But for me, the greater appeal on Insight Vacations’ 12-day ‘Italian Elegance’ tour lay in other directions: The stunning peaks of the Dolomites when a rising sun first hits the snow-caps. The rainbow streets in the Venetian island of Burano, all the houses brightly painted from a colourful palette. The five enchanting villages of the Cinque Terre, clinging improbably to the steep and rocky slopes of the Ligurian shoreline. And the intriguing Borromean islands in Lake Maggiore.

WE’D EXPECTED GRANDEUR and spectacle in Italy’s famous cities, seen the images so many times in so many places; seeing them at first hand was awarmand fuzzy…like visiting old friends in familiar settings. But our most lasting delights were found in unexpected corners of northern Italy, on the coast, in the mountains and in smaller centres that get less exposure.

The decision to join the Insight coach tour proved to be a smart move. Leave the driving to them. Don’t worry about the luggage, leave that to them, too. We enjoyed stays in interesting hotels, most of themwith special character and not part of a big chain (see sidebar). An experienced tour director, like ours, the knowledgeable and unflappable Ernesta, knows how to time the sightseeing to minimize crowd interference. Born in Italy, like many Europeans Ernesta is multilingual and speaks faultless colloquial English with a northern accent – a legacy of her upbringing in Britain.

Coach tours have been around a long time: climb aboard and, on an Insight tour, head off with amaximumof only 40 vacationers to half a dozen different countries or cities in 14 days. The classic coach tour – if it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium!Its popularity seems to be undiminished.

Passengers can relax in comfort enjoying the extra leg room provided by Insight and watch the passing scene, stopping along the way for photo ops and the occasional coffee break (the coach had a toilet for emergencies). On each of the travelling days, passengers – mainly from England, the U.S., Canada and Australia – moved back three seats, eventually circling the coach so that no one hogged the ‘best’ seats.

It didn’t take long for some of Italy’s less well known towns to insinuate their special charms into our consciousness. Early in the trip we spent a morning in medieval Siena, famous for its Palio, a mad horse race, perilous for horse and rider and staged twice a year, on July 2 and August 16. In this contest which began hundreds of years ago, horses race around the Piazza del Campo, one of Europe’s largest and most impressive town squares. Siena has an unusual 12th-century Romanesque Duomo (cathedral) with a picturesque striped bell tower. It contains architectural highlights such as an octagonal pulpit, fine Renaissance frescoes in the Sacristy, and a labyrinth mosaic design in the cathedral’s floor which penitents negotiate on their knees.

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