COASTAL CHRONICLES

Taking it slow in Eastern Spain

AFTER YEARS OF both frenetic and leisurely travel, I've learned that a slow pace is the fastest route to a peaceful mind. My first-ever trip to Spain in 1989 was part of a mad-dash Eurail blitz across 10 countries. But for my recent return to that country, I instead spent three weeks exploring a small section, along its northeast coast. I got onto a bicycle whenever feasible and I focused more on lesser known, and more serene natural landscapes instead of big cities and famous sites.

Delta Ebre: Where land meets sea

Despite thousands of acres of natural park, rice patties and sprawling beaches, the Delta Ebre — where Spain's longest river flows into the Mediterranean Sea – seems to have been overshadowed by its bustling neighbours, Barcelona to the north and Valencia to the south.

I don't understand why. In mid-May, miles of rice plants dominate this horizontal plain, their sprigs of tall bright green grass waving in unison with the breeze, like thousands of synchronized swimmers. By later summer these fields will have turned golden, and then as spring approaches again, the fields will resemble blue glass mirrors, the sky reflected in the water that is saturating the roots of these plants, which get ready to grow again. And while the fields are chameleon, the mountains beyond are stalwart, a dramatic backdrop against an otherwise horizontal landscape.

Flamingoes, Delta de L'Ebre

For several nights, we stayed at Masia Tinet, an old renovated farmhouse, its back patio overlooking these fields. By day, my husband and I explored the region, cycling along a path adjacent to its rice fields, without a car in sight. One day we stopped at MonNatura Delta de L'Ebre, a nature centre where you can view through telescopes the flamingoes, ibises and other birds that flock here. There are some 340 species in the area, drawn by a terrain that combines sky, land and sea. We watched as literally dozens of flamingoes stood on one leg in the shallow waters, and then took flight, their pink and orange wings clearly discernible against the sky.

The author cycling in the delta

Close by was the almost deserted six-km-long Trabucador Beach, which made for a perfect stop for a swim and a stroll. Then 15 minutes from there is El Poble Nou de Delta, a tiny village created after the Spanish civil war, its streets lined with palm trees and white colonial houses. There we enjoyed a multi-course lunch at El Algadir, a Michelin Bib restaurant where their "zero-kilometre" commitment to using fresh local ingredients was like a virtual walk through the delta.

Lunch at El Agadir

The region shared this focus on local in many of its other establishments as well. The Musclarium in Sant Carles de la Ràpita, for example, is essentially a tapas bar on water where we took a boat out to a floating restaurant to learn how oysters and mussels are harvested, and then ate them fresh from a catch! In the town, Miami Can Pons restaurant was another great destination for seafood and other traditional Mediterranean dishes.

We also got to sample great regional wine in the Ebro at a "clandestine wine tasting." With only GPS coordinates to guide us, we biked to a small bridge overlooking the Ebro River where we were joined by sommelier Llúcia Castaño, also on a bike. "We are in the heart of the delta because we are on an island in the middle of the river, which separates two counties in the middle of the delta," Castano tells us, explaining her choice of the area. Together we biked to a nearby event space where Castano produced two DO Terra Alta local wines, and two tappas, served on a white tablecloth, which we enjoyed while watching the sun set over the water.

Kayaking in the delta

Another day, we replaced bike with kayak, and did a guided birdwatching trip with family-run Enblau Adventures. Quietly we paddled a narrow windy river, as we watched a black kite soar above us, listened to a Eurasian golden oriole singing, and admired grey heron and the colourful hoopoe bird.

Tarragona

From nature to ruins

The next stop on our tour was Tarragona, which we had chosen as a laid-back alternative to the more touristed Barcelona about 80 kilometres away. Tarragona proved to be the right tenor for our slow-travel mandate.

A blend of Roman, medieval and modern, this town is a UNESCO world heritage site famous for its Roman ruins. To orient ourselves, we booked a 2.5-hour tour with the fabulous Alexa Toral Harper of Explore Free Tours. She explained how Tarragona, originally called Tarraco, was once a military base established by the Romans in 218 BC.

"The Romans loved stones," she remarks, gesturing at the black and white stones beneath our feet.

Village of Peratallada

In this town, stone is really everywhere — underfoot, in the structures of its buildings, the walls of the cathedrals, and of course the ruins left by the Romans. Among the most impressive are the 2nd AD Roman amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought exotic animals like tigers, lions and even bears; the Circus where they had chariot racing; and the Provincial Forum.

Begur Castle

Costa Brava: Where cliffs meet sea

From Tarragona, we then took a train 1.5 hours north to Girona in Costa Brava, an area known for the craggy cliffs and crashing waves that surround its coast. Over several days, we based ourselves in Begur, a small seaside town with a castle that sits on top of a mountain, overlooking the village. Our "masia" this time was the Hotel Galena Mas Comangau, a traditional farmhouse restored from the 16th Century, and located just about a 10-minute walk from the town centre.

Trabucador Beach

Our daily ritual was simple and serene. We would enjoy a swim in the turquoise waters at Aiguablava beach in the morning, and then visit a medieval town in the afternoon. Our favourites were the town of Pals, with its archways and castle towers; the ancient village of Peratallada, for our memorable three-course lunch at the Bar del Poble de Peratalla; and S'Agaro, where we found ourselves meandering along the "Cami de Ronda," an historic seaside walking path that follows the coast.

Cami de Ronda coastal path

For our last few days in Spain, we based ourselves at Camiral Golf & Wellness resort, located just about an hour from the Barcelona airport, and just outside Costa Brava. There we enjoyed some top-shelf amenities, ate delicious Mediterranean cuisine, had treatments at their wellness centre and stayed in one of their luxurious apartment-style suites.

Admittedly, we never did make it to Figueres, the birthplace of Salvador Dali, or to Portligat and Pubol, which inspired the famous artist's work. My younger self would have found it unconscionable to have missed these iconic spots. But as the trip taught me, sometimes seeing less will allow you to enjoy more.

Village of Peratallada

Written by Diana Ballon for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Spring/Summer 2025)