Great Cruise, Great Ship, Great Lakes

We’ve cruised the Mediterranean, the Arctic, the Caribbean, the Sea of Cortez, the Galápagos Islands and more, but it wasn’t until last summer that we discovered the fun of cruising our own Great Lakes.

When we looked closely at the hull of the Victory II as we boarded her in the Toronto Harbour, we saw the vague outline of other lettering behind the word “Victory”. That faint shadow hinted at the fascinating life this small but much-loved ship has lived. Owned originally by John Waggoner, this ship and her sister, Victory I had a previous life, sailing in other waters, before being sold to another cruise line who renamed and sailed them for several years. “But I missed them,” says their first and once-again owner Waggoner. “And so when they came up for sale again, I bought them.” Yes, he says, many people thought he was crazy, but love knows no bounds and Waggoner and his family love these ships. The lobby of the Victory II is graced by a photograph of her godmother, Waggoner’s young granddaughter, Molly who was just 12 years old at the time.
Every inch of the ship and every staff and crew member aboard seems to share the same passion. Within hours of our arrival, we were being greeted by name and our preferences for everything were almost instantly noted.

“Ah Miss Liz,” the servers at breakfast would smile. “You like the vanilla caramel rooibos tea. Here’s a pot all ready for you.” Though the ship is far from new, the work done to refurbish and refresh is evident everywhere – you can almost smell the slick of a fresh coat of paint drying in the breeze. The brass has been polished, the carpets renewed, and the upholstery replaced. This intimate little ship preens with pleasure at her fresh new face.
The staterooms are compact but comfortable, with ample storage. A large window offers a wonderful view, and though no rooms have balconies, those on the top deck have small outdoor areas with seating. All guests can easily find spaces for lolling in the shared outdoor areas where tables, comfy chairs and lounges await. Days are filled with sailing on one of the most famous inland water systems in the world – the Great Lakes – and over the course of our ten-day cruise, we dipped our hull into each of them. After embarking in Toronto, and crossing a surprisingly choppy Lake Ontario, we entered the Welland Canal, where we were about a ten-minute drive from our St. Catharines home. We did not jump ship!  

The next morning found us in Port Colborne where the big shore excursion attraction was, of course, Niagara Falls. Because it is in our neighbourhood, we tend to take the Falls for granted, I’m afraid, but watching the reaction of our fellow guests was inspiring. For some, seeing Niagara Falls was a lifetime ambition and we were reminded by their heartfelt reactions that we should appreciate this natural wonder and our fortunate proximity to it. Each day brought new adventures. We toured the cafés, souvenir and fudge shops of Mackinac Island and watched the horse-drawn carriages ferrying guests up and down the old main street – no cars allowed there! We reconnected with our musical past as we dove into the fascinating displays of Cleveland’s Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, marvelling at just how small Mick Jagger’s jeans really were and how
many number one songs the Beatles had. At the Henry Ford Museum in Detroit, we were awed to see the bus in which Rosa Parks took her brave position on racial equality and were honoured to sit in her seat.  Even the days we spent at ‘sea’ were filled with things to view. Often, on an ocean cruise, sea days offer little to look at but endless water; however, in the Great Lakes, you’re frequently close enough to shore to be able to see cottages. You can watch children running down docks to jump into the water, and imagine yourself sitting on the porch of a charming spot, gazing at the Victory II sailing by. Somehow, you catch a bit of that summertime magic and feel a part of every little lakeside community. On board, we found ourselves part of another community that quickly developed. Though the vast majority of the guests were American, and we were, in fact, two of just three Canadians – politics were thankfully not a topic of dinner table conversation. Instead, we talked about books, movies, grandchildren, shore excursions, food, and whatever struck us as amusing that day.

We alternated between enjoying the wonderful cuisine prepared for us by the chefs in the Coastal Dining room and the fabulous steaks, lamb chops, tenderloin and shrimp we grilled for ourselves in The Tuscan Stone Grill, the specialty restaurant on the top deck where you’re presented with a blazing hot stone on which to grill your own goodies. Reservations were required for the specialty restaurant, but there was no extra fee, and tables were always available. No matter which spot we chose, there was always someone friendly and interesting with whom to share our meal and have a few laughs. Sometimes, after dinner or on sailing afternoons, we’d find ourselves a cozy table in the small pub behind the Lounge, where a friendly bartender was always on hand. Though we’ve sailed on many ships, never have we found a more versatile entertainment staff. Not only did the ship’s band perform live music every night – changing styles and costumes accordingly – but they also provided cocktail jazz. One band member was the cruise director, another, the IT specialist and another gave well-prepared lectures about important points of interest along the way. They hosted bingo games and trivia contests and always had time to chat. We don’t know when they slept. The greatest surprise for us on our Great Lakes cruise was simply how great the lakes are.

The waters are vast and while there are certainly bustling ports and cottage communities along the way, many of the shorelines are still green and untouched. Towering trees and craggy rock faces stared silently from the shores of Lake Ontario, Lake Erie, Lake Michigan, Lake Huron and Lake Superior as the Victory II passed by, reminding us of the iconic works of the Group of Seven painters and giving us a sense that there is still incredible natural beauty to be discovered, right in our own backyard.

Written by Liz Fleming for Cruise & Travel Lifestyles magazine (Winter 2026). Photos courtesy of Victory Cruise Lines.