North to Alaska

Sailing from Vancouver to Seward on a 7-day voyage on Silversea’s Silver Nova – one of Alaska’s most luxurious and scenic adventures.
VANESSA LEE

THE LAUNCH OF THE Silver Nova in 2023, followed by sister ship, the Silver Ray in 2024, introduced loyal Silversea guests to a bold, revolutionary design. Each ship was built with asymmetrical architecture that frames sweeping views of the sea, sky and now, the magnificence of Alaska. Our journey unfolded amid towering fjords, emerald forests, glacier-studded waters, and plentiful wildlife, happily viewed from the comfort of the SilverNova, an elegant all-suite ship offering butler service, expansive decks, spacious accommodations, gorgeous public rooms and panoramic views. As we sailed, we savoured unrivalled culinary options across eight restaurants, including venues and experiences in the celebrated and much-vaunted S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) program, of which we are true fans.

Having not been to Alaska in more than 20 years, it was interesting to see how it has changed – and, for the better. Our first port was Ketchikan, but before arriving, we enjoyed a lovely, sunny early-evening sail-away from stunning Vancouver. Then, we spent a day cruising the calm waters of the Inside Passage, where pine forests rolled down to the water and whales appeared on the horizon. I love sea days, especially right after boarding a ship. It settles you down; you can organize and explore your ship, attend port lectures, enjoy some spa time, and whatever activity you might choose. It’s a great way to meet fellow guests, and there’s time to confirm your restaurant reservations, which should be made before sailing to ensure guest satisfaction. 

Ketchikan, known as the ‘Salmon Capital of the World,’ is home to the largest collection of Totem Poles anywhere and you can admire them at the interesting Heritage Center. These intricately carved poles preserve the heritage of the indigenous Tlingit and Haida people of these lands. There are many shore excursions offered, and it’s some- times hard to choose – book early for your preferred choice. Perhaps you’ll choose the Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary, alive with bald eagles and black bears, the Alaskan Lodge Adventure and Seafeast, or the old town and the colourful historic street built on crooked stilts over Ketchikan Creek, which has a crude history as the main red-light district in town. We enjoyed a wander here and ended up in Dolly’s House – a brothel turned museum! There must have been a choice of more than 16 excursions, most in the morning and some in the afternoon.

Icy Strait Point, located in the middle of Glacier Bay, was a favourite call, summing up all that Alaska is, with nature as the star attraction. It’s an extraordinarily beautiful place, with clear water lapping at the shore and velvety green, snow-capped mountains providing a spectacular backdrop. The small village of Hoonah is welcoming, with more brown bears in the vicinity than people – we did see one ambling along a road! An authentic wildlife encounter occurred on our boat tour, with breaching humpbacks on all sides and soaring bald eagles flying overhead – it was exciting and impressive. We also saw other marine life as we enjoyed a very satisfying Alaskan day, accompanied by spring sunshine. Lovely Skagway, set on the northern tip of the Inside Passage, recalls the gold rush era with its historic streets and mountain-backed trails, and this is where we chose a fantastic excursion, dubbed a “Fjord Odyssey by Ocean Raft". The first step was being outfitted by the charming and competent crew of two ladies in our full-survivor, bright orange suits! Then, along with other guests, we jumped into our vessel, a RIB boat. We held on tightly and enjoyed some fantastic rafting on the Lynn Canal, part of America’s longest fjord. It was both exciting and fascinating and we loved it. We zoomed around, got close to the shore, saw many eagles, porpoises, harbor seals, impressive waterfalls, and tiny sea creatures, and had a blast – I highly recommend it.

When we arrived back at our suite, we were delighted to see the lights dimmed, a warm bubble bath drawn, scattered with rose petals, candles, and music playing on the iPad – a perfect end to a fantastic day. Then it was over to dinner at La Dame, the ship’s most formal and fabulous small restaurant offering a French fine dining menu for just 68 guests. Gentlemen must wear jackets there, and a dining fee per person applies for a gourmet meal, which began, of course, with Champagne and caviar. The views, service, and cuisine were all impeccable. Menu items included Chilean sea bass, rack of lamb, Perigord duck, lobster, Dover sole, and foie gras, with wine pairings, to round out a delicious experience. A day of glacier cruising was next, and we were treated to an up-close view of nature’s majesty as Captain Zanello took us into Icy Bay, where we saw lots of ‘bergy bits’ and had great views of the glacier. The ice was beginning to break up, but the views were utterly compel- ling. We enjoyed the expert commentary and fine Champagne, hot chocolate with Bailey’s if desired and tasty treats on Deck 10 and in the Observation Lounge, which is the place to be for such glacial excitement.

Valdez wowed with cascading waterfalls and the dramatic scenery of Prince William Sound, and a fabulous sail along the ¹ord to the pretty town with 4,000-foot high mountain ranges topped with snow and glaciers. We chose a coach tour of the area and up into the Thompson Pass, saw more bears and enjoyed our day in this stunning locale – a great finish to the sightseeing aspect of our cruise. The excellent accommodations on the Silver Nova are located on Decks 6 through 9, and the stunning public spaces are primarily situated on Decks 4 and 5 as well as Deck 10, which is my personal favourite – more on that soon. With this layout, the Silver Nova and the Silver Ray appear more beautiful, impressive and quite spectacular. 

The Nova has room for 728 guests, although the ship never feels busy or crowded. Being welcomed aboard on Deck 4 at the lovely and popular Arts Café with Champagne and caviar only added to the sense of occasion and is a great way to start a cruise. Every room is a suite, and each suite features a veranda, and comes with every amenity you might want – a spacious walk-in closet, a lovely bathroom (some come with bathtubs), great lighting, a kettle and coffee maker, plus an in-suite mini fridge and good living space. Each room has butler service as well as a suite attendant – both of ours were terrific and always available for anything we might need.

The dining is particularly notable – there are so many options you can barely dine in them all during a 7-day cruise. Two restaurants, the S.A.L.T. Kitchen and Atlantide, both on Deck 3, offer open-seating dining – no reservations required. The latter would be considered the “main” dining room if there were such a thing on this ship. The former is a nod to the fantastic S.A.L.T. program instituted about five years ago – an acronym for Sea and Land Taste, which covers shipboard dining, culinary excursions. The S.A.L.T Lab, used for cooking classes by day, turns into a remarkable dining experience at night for an upcharge and by reservation for 18 guests. It calls to all foodies for very special experiences with chefs preparing your meal in front of you at The Chef’s Table. Thia unique dining experience is insightful, thoughtful and deliciously tasty. Be sure to reserve a table ahead of time at the Silver Note Supper Club, which offers small bites, fantastic piano music, and a chanteuse singing bluesy tunes. 

Back to Deck 10, my favourite area on the ship. There you’ll find the fab S.A.L.T. Bar offering great cock tails from excellent mixologists, a saxophone player entertaining during cocktail hour and the best views. The stunning Marquee Grill commands the middle of the deck, offering perennial favourites such as Spaccanapoli Pizza and Hot Rocks, as well as an additional menu – it’s a magnet for diners at lunch and dinner (even in chilly Alaska!) Blankets and ceiling heaters were well-used on our itinerary, but if you’re in the Med, then this is still the place to be, with natural warmth to welcome you.

A resort feel emanates across this deck, with the breathtaking pool on one side, ample chaises, couches, and seating areas, and a pool bar nearby. Add the new and delightful Dusk Bar at the ship’s a” for spectacular sunsets, and this deck be- comes the must-go-to spot. With Silversea’s hallmark personalized service, gourmet dining, and thoughtfully curated shore excursions, each day brings an unforgettable blend of adventure and indulgence on Alaska’s mighty frontier.