Cruise & Travel Lifestyles

Resilient Remarkable Maui

Resilient Remarkable Maui

WHEN WE ARRIVED at Maui’s Wailea Beach Resort in October 2023, the prestigious property was everything a lush tropical resort should be with beautifully appointed rooms, charming staff, crystalline pools, a sugary beach, elegant restaurants – even an ultra-indulgent private spa pool with included shoulder massages and gourmet treats delivered to your lounger.

It was luxurious, welcoming – and surprising.

How could a Maui resort be so perfect? Wasn’t this the Hawaiian island where an August 7th, 2023 fire destroyed the historic port town of Lahaina? Where all hotels were filled with survivors and first responders? A place tourists should avoid out of respect for those who’d lost their lives? Hadn’t the entire island been destroyed?

The reality of Maui couldn’t be more different.

The island is 48 miles long and 26 miles wide but the Lahaina fire – which tragically claimed 115 lives – affected less than three and a half square miles. Cruel and capricious, fed by random winds from an off-shore storm, the blaze destroyed just one precious town, leaving the rest of the island untouched. Two large nearby resorts were initially used to house firefighters, medical personnel and survivors, but all the other Maui hotels and resorts are open, the lush rainforest lands in the heart of the island are unaffected and the beaches, untouched. The sun still shines with a resilient brilliance and the welcome for visitors is eager and warm. In fact, tourism is the lifeblood of the island’s recovery, a vital financial infusion supporting the people of Lahaina as they begin rebuilding their lives.

Sunset at Wailea Beach Resort. Photo courtesy of resort.

The story is the same across the island. We asked one tour company owner how local people were feeling about the return of guests, particularly to west Maui, near Lahaina. “Many people lost their homes to the ”re,” he explained. “We don’t want others to lose theirs to foreclosure.”

It’s important to remember that visitors who choose a Maui holiday this year won’t have a lesser experience. The island is fringed with sandy beaches and offers world-class fishing, outstanding surfing, paddle boarding, canoeing, snorkelling, SCUBA – every water sport you’d expect in a tropical paradise. The seafood is fresh and fabulous, the resorts range from relaxed and family-friendly to elegant and upscale, and the service is uniformly gracious. Hospitality is woven into the Hawaiian culture.

We walked the beaches, watched the surfers at Kehei, and toured the fascinating Ocean Center to learn about the whales, sharks and other ocean creatures that swim in Maui’s underwater Molokini crater. A helicopter lifted us high above the rainforest for spectacular views of cascading waterfalls and made a stop in an Edenlike valley. There, our friendly pilot introduced us to a wilderness of different ginger varieties, including a bright pink blossom we learned was a natural cleanser that needed just a gentle squeeze to release sweet-scented liquid.

Sunset above the clouds at Haleakala. Photo courtesy of the Maui Visitors & Convention Bureau (MVCB).

One memorable evening, we made the must-do drive up to the rugged Haleakala Crater, 10,000 feet above sea level and nearly 20 degrees cooler than the rest of the island. We shivered a little, despite the blankets we’d brought to chase the chill but the jaw-dropping view of the sun setting not below or behind, but rather above the clouds was unlike anything we’d ever seen before. One early morning, we rose with the sun, then gathered on the beach in front of our hotel to climb into a traditional Hawaiian war canoe. Led by a nature-loving guide, we paddled to a reef where sea turtles were waiting, seemingly eager to pose for a photo-taking session. Each day on Maui was a memory in the making.

We loved the island so much that we wanted to give something back and it was easy to join local recovery efforts. A day of volunteering at the emergency distribution center near Lahaina, packing food, clothing and other supplies was a simple way to make a contribution. We joined volunteers from across the U.S. and indeed, around the world. Some were part of government-run aid agencies while others were like us, just visitors touched by the stunning scope of Lahaina’s loss. We rolled up our sleeves, pitched in and felt privileged to be there.

Sea turtle spotting onboard a traditional Hawaiian war canoe. Photo credit: Liz Fleming.

Whether or not you choose to add voluntourism to your trip lineup, you can help the people of Maui simply by visiting. While you’re there, remember that grief is private and don’t ask how the people you meet were affected by the fire. The server who’s working extra shifts may have lost her home – or worse. The bartender who smiles as he pours your Mai Tai may be struggling to pay his bills and support his displaced family, so keeping the conversation positive and adding an extra-generous tip is best. Stifle your curiosity and offer your kindness, patience and understanding instead.

It’s not often that we can use our travel dollars to make a real and immediate difference in the world, but choosing Maui for this year’s getaway could help heal an island and her people. By spending your holiday there, you’ll be offering your support and truly embodying the Hawaiian word “Melama.” It means “healing.”


Written by Liz Fleming (Cruise and Travel Lifestyles Winter/Spring 2024)

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