Riviera Rose and the Douro River

Sailing the famed river aboard one of Riviera Travel’s newest ships blends Porto’s charm with wine, culture and relaxed luxury. Liz Fleming

Our adventure begins in the ancient Portuguese city of Porto, where the waves of the Atlantic Ocean meet the gentler waters of the Douro River. For a couple of pre-cruise days, we wander Porto’s charmingly uneven streets, ride the funicular from the riverfront wine cellars to the bustling shops of Rua Santa Catarina, gorge on delicate pasteis de nata custard tarts, line up for tea at the charming Majestic Café, marvel at the hundreds of hand-painted blue and white tiles at the “world’s most beautiful train station” and gape in awe at the ornate carved walls, staircase and stained glass ceiling at the Livraria Lello, the only bookstore where customers happily pay an entry fee simply to walk in the door. We could easily stay for weeks, but another adventure is waiting. Porto’s historic vibe proves to be the perfect contrast for the newly minted welcome on the Riviera Rose. 

One of the newest ships in the Riviera fleet, Riviera Rose has been sailing the 897 km Douro River since April 2025 and has a bright, modern feel that’s simultaneously cozy and sleek. Muted shades of cream and sage contrast with deeper greens and rust for an interior that echoes the beauty of the Douro Valley landscape, the UNESCO World Heritage area we’re sailing through. Fashionable informality is the tone in the lounge and dining room, with rich dark wood and terrazzo tabletops unencumbered by cloths and graced with pots of fresh orchids.

Soft grey grass-cloth wall coverings and curtains seem to disappear into the background as we sail, leaving an uninterrupted view with natural light shimmering in through glass ceilings. Our stateroom is a marvel of creative space management, with more storage than we need – who ever says that? Floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors stretch the full width and as we’re never more than a few hundred feet from the shore, we’re able to wave at fishermen casting lines from their boats and kayakers paddling nearby. Often, we lounge on what is surely the most comfortable bed in the river cruise world, sipping espresso from our snazzy in-room machine and feeling very spoiled indeed. Perhaps the most indulgent feature in our stateroom is the spacious shower – a wondrous creation of chrome and glass with both handheld and rain shower heads, endless, steamy hot water and admirable pressure. 

When the sun shines – and it does, even on this mid-October sailing – we sit on the upper deck, enjoying not only the gorgeous landscape through which we’re sailing and the company of a very friendly collection of British, American and Canadian fellow travellers but also the park-like décor. With ample tables, chairs and loungers as well as a shallow, heated pool and some carefully placed greenery, this part of the ship is a guest fave. Though quiet conversations take place, there seems to be an unspoken agreement that we won’t interrupt the tranquility of the valley. It’s a wonderful break from the noise of the outside world as we sail into locks that either lift or lower our sleek white ship and glide under bridges so snug overhead that the umbrellas must be laid on their sides and guests are advised to sit down. The roof of the upper deck Rio Restaurant lowers, its windows hinge in half outward and its door reclines to reduce the height of the ship. It’s magical to watch and we make a point of sprinting up to the top deck each time a low bridge appears. Dining onboard is very collegial and though we do quickly find a group of friends with whom we often meet for meals, we also feel entirely comfortable sitting down with people we’ve only just encountered. It’s a community of well-travelled, like minded adventurers so the conversations are lively and fun – exactly what you’d hope for on a vacation. 

There are two venues to choose from – the Main Restaurant and the smaller, more intimate Rio Restaurant on the sunny upper deck at the aft of the ship where bookings (though included in the fare) are required. The menu is the same in both and appetizers and sometimes salads are served buffet-style, which encourages happy mingling. Great efforts are made to include the food traditions, recipes and products of the area so we feast on Iberico ham, fat juicy olives and a panoply of indulgent pastries and desserts. It’s a delicious mix of Spanish and Portuguese cuisine that perfectly mirrors the blend of cultures and sights we’re experiencing. The spacious lounge is where cruise director Lale gives brief, but fact-filled overviews of the shore excursions planned each day, while shipboard musician Vini entertains after dinner. Special evenings include a guest-and-crew dance party, music trivia and a moving performance by local Fado singers. Shore excursions focus on history, wine and culture and almost all involve guided coach tours to nearby towns, cities and wineries. From ancient ruins in Castelo Rodrigo, to the almost 700 steps we climb from the Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios in Lamego, to the dinner and port tasting at Quinta (winery) da Pacheca, and the walking tour of the historic city that’s home to the old and new Cathedrals and University of Salamanca, each site is a window into the fascinating world of the Douro Valley. 

Our friendly Portuguese and Spanish hosts offer informative tours and generous pours of the red, white and sweet Port wines for which the region is so famous and invite us to experience their vintner’s culture. This cruise is a there-and-back itinerary, sailing from Porto to Salamanca and return, giving guests ample opportunity to drink in both the landscape and the wines it produces, as well as more than enough time to fall deeply in love with the Douro Valley.