SEVILLE, SEVILLE!

A mid-winter visit to Andalusia´s emblematic capital city.

CROISIEUROPE's elegant cruise vessel, La Belle de Cadix, is at anchor on a crisp February afternoon, picture perfect on the Guadalquivir River in Seville. Sixty miles south, a choppy Atlantic Ocean is preventing access to the Bay of Cadiz, holding us here an extra day. But if an extra day must be spent somewhere, nowhere is more congenial than this handsome Andalusian city, providing the bookends for this brief, six-day river cruise. Even on a February weekday, we are reminded of Seville’s status as a headline Spanish destination. Visitors of all nationalities are seduced by its plazas, flower-filled patios, signature ochre-coloured buildings, patisseries, bookshops, hat makers, museums, monuments and bodegas. Steering a course away from these immediate attractions, there is a labyrinth of narrow streets and plazas peppered with orange trees. Always an elite society, Seville’s unique status and place in Spanish history is reflected in its architecture, elaborate municipal design and manicured gardens. 

References to the ambitious 1929 Latin American Exhibition are everywhere, starting at the extravagant Plaza Espana. This is an exhilarating, sprawling city, its citizens elegant and animated. Yet a comprehensive perusal of Seville requires a map, time and some stamina. Another option is simply to choose a congenial bar and watch the world go by;  the rolling panorama of energetic Spanish life is free to behold. A morning of Seville watching can then be remembered from the comfort of CroisiEurope’s river vessel.
With a capacity of one hundred and seventy-six guests, and swathed in more-or-less wrap around glass, the dead white La Belle de Cadix feels airy and spacious. The staterooms on the upper deck have French balconies, those on the middle deck have large flexing windows and those on the main deck have portholes. Seating space in the room is limited but there is a spacious lounge and bar forward of the ship and a smaller lounge at the rear of the vessel. Both have exterior spaces. Add the sun deck to the mix and you’ll find plenty of areas for lounging during the day. The ship’s staff is multilingual, courteous and efficient.  The ambiance of the vessel dictates ‘relax mode’ and from its soft, pastel interiors you can watch the rowing teams practice on the river and drink a glass of Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) as the sun dips and dusk falls. Once the ship received word that the Atlantic was calm, we set off downriver and by late afternoon crossed the Bay of Cadiz and berthed at the Port of Santa Maria.

It was from here that Columbus planned his voyages to America and this small, elegant enclave stands as a testament to the wealth generated by his voyages and those who participated in them. Gothic doorways fronting grand houses are commonplace. At dusk, follow the back alleys into another world and find a glass or two of Fino (dry white, chilled sherry), accompanied by camarones – miniature, deep-fried, crispy shrimp omelettes. This is an overnight stop, so you can explore into the small hours and still find your well-illuminated ship waiting for you. The following morning, La Belle crosses the bay and into the arms of Cadiz, an ancient maritime city standing on the bones of the original Phoenician enclave, laid down three thousand years ago and still being unearthed today. Comfortably navigated on foot, Cadiz is a small city with an Atlantic breeze whistling around almost every corner. Less flamboyant than Seville, Cadiz is nonetheless a cornerstone of the Andalucian community and a principal element in the evolution of the Spanish empire. Although it now lives in the shadow of past glories, it is a beautiful shadow, and this old maritime city is one of the most charismatic in Spain. As with Seville, several days are required even to scratch its surface, but a morning’s walk will provide a colourful, thumbnail sketch.

The itinerary on this brief river voyage is well-crafted and includes excursions to the Osborne Wineries, founded in 1772, a magnificent estate set amongst gardens and including vast, gabled cellars. The whitewashed Andalusian villages provide a morning’s interlude, and if a four-hour round-trip bus ride doesn’t intimidate you, then a day’s excursion to Granada is on hand. For those who want to absorb more of Seville, there is a final, free day and plenty to do. Head to Triana, once the down-at-heel, bohemian quarter, but now a chic enclave harbouring art galleries, energetic tapas bars and spontaneous outbursts of flamenco. On the riverside walk back to the ship, stop at Abades Triana, Seville’s most celebrated and elegant waterfront restaurant. Spectacular views and the emblematic Andalusían dishes found here are worth the stop. Or maybe you’ll choose to head back to La Belle, your elegant floating hotel, have lunch and contemplate the past day´s events.

Veteran fleet executive chef Richard Moll was on board this sailing and allowed me into the galley. Wonderful culinary treats emerge from this small space, and the gala dinner, which closed the voyage, featured handsome beef tournedos and a blazing baked Alaska flambé. Lunch and dinner are a fixed, Chef’s choice menu composed of three courses with complimentary wines. A vegetarian option is available daily. Breakfast service closes somewhat early, at nine, so late risers have to go in search of coffee and croissants in the lounge area. CroisiEurope is a large company operating more than fifty vessels around the world and they are well-practiced in the hospitality business. This is evident at every level of this short cruise experience. Doing little and staying still is becoming the mantra amongst seasoned travellers and there is no better spot than this calm river cruise to do just that.

Written by Andrew Maclear for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Fall 2025)