Spirited away on the Mekong

A journey on a small river ship offers an intimate perspective, carrying travellers past emerald rice paddies, floating markets, and stilted villages seemingly untouched by time. It’s a tapestry of Southeast Asia’s past and present, the lifeblood of daily life, culture and commerce. Sailing on the Mekong reveals a rhythm both timeless and deeply human, where each bend in the river brings a new story waiting to unfold.

The fascinating, enlightening, and exotic way of life in Vietnam and Cambodia is on full display as we journey upstream on the mighty Mekong River aboard the fabulous, intimate, and all-inclusive Scenic Spirit. Our luxurious River ship holds just 68 guests in 34 spacious suites, each with a private balcony, attended to by a delightful crew of 50, including our butler, Soe, who pampers us constantly. The spacious accommodations are lovely; with extremely comfy beds and all the necessary amenities you’d ever want. The staff are a delight, hailing from Myanmar, Vietnam, Cambodia, and China, and we enjoy our time with them, whether we’re with the restaurant servers, the bar staff, reception, spa, or housekeeping team. Our Hotel Manager is a marvellous Hungarian woman who we call Timmi. She is one of the finest I have ever sailed with and is an outstanding asset to the Scenic River Cruise brand. 

Every evening, as we enjoy pre-dinner cocktails and hors d’oeuvres in the lounge, Timmi reviews what we can expect the next day. Then our guides provide more specifics. There is much to listen to and learn, so rapt attention is required and happily provided by all. Scenic River Cruises impresses every step of the way with a seamless and outstanding river and land stay in these countries, culminating with three nights in Siem Reap, home to more than 72 ancient temples – a wonderfully impressive place to end our Mekong sailing. It’s a must-see, and our Gala evening at an ancient temple, courtesy of Scenic, is a spectacular way to say farewell. From day one, and for the next 12 days, we are in the company of our Vietnamese guides, our Tour Directors for the trip, and they are fantastic. When we arrive in Cambodia, two more guides join us to share their knowledge of the country. Four guides between us, and each is a delight. Guests are split into two groups, each with a guide, and we become reliant on them and their ministrations along the way. We are captive to their charms and knowledge as we embark on a visually intriguing sailing northward on the mighty Mekong.

We begin in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, a busy metropolis that blends French Colonial architecture with modern skyscrapers. Our stay is at the famous Caravelle Hotel, where many journalists stayed during the Vietnamese War. The rooftop bar is a fascinating spot for a drink with a view, replete with sombre photographs of that era. The Mekong and its surroundings are full of exotic sights, an array of never-ending ornate temples and the occasional cathedral, monks in saffron robes, and colourful dancers swathed in glittering, exquisite costumes. It’s not a pretty river, being mostly brown and silty, but it does have a certain romantic, fascinating charm. It also plays a hugely valuable role as a major trade route. Your curiosity is constantly piqued, as the river can be enticing, always culturally diverse, and filled with things to see and do. Occasionally, it is lush and beautiful, and the bird life we see is tremendous. The whole experience is authentic, sometimes gritty and difficult, especially when we visit a wet market. We tour some villages, noting the local Brahman cattle that live in the same space as their owners. A special day for us is a visit to a local school where the youngsters have an English lesson. Each of us finds a child to sit with, and we read English books together. I was fortunate to have two little girls who now say ‘banana’ with a very English accent! Many people we meet live very simply, and we seek to understand their way of life as our guides explain this region known as the rice bowl of Asia.

From the bustling floating markets in Vietnam to the serene temples of Cambodia, this cruise is a blend of adventure and tranquility. There is vibrant life thriving on the riverbanks, and it is on display wherever we are. Locals cultivate rice paddies, lotus farms, and fruit. They raise fish, transport goods and live on the river in boats. Their schools sometimes float, and their shops can be on other vessels, which seems curious but also logical. Sampans are common, and we take one on several shore excursions – it’s an alluring mode of transport evocative of the past. We begin our trip on a coach from Saigon to My Tho, where we embark on our gorgeous little ship, with a stop for an included lunch along the way. We also have our first lesson about the “Happy Room” – important to us all! We learn that there will usually be a few toilet stops along the way when we are on excursions, which can be lengthy. The “Happy Room” is exactly that – a pit stop, if you will. Our guides impress upon us that some of these happy spots are 3-star, possibly 4-star and occasionally 5-star – it’s a standing joke. Some guests even bring toilet paper with them – just in case! Scenic is very thoughtful about our schedule, and we have appropriate stops for drinks, food and more as we enjoy our shore excursions. There are excellent choices, usually several a day, depending on where our ship is. And before long, we feel immersed in the culture and history of the region. One choice in Cai Be, where we anchor in the middle of the river, is a Sampan ride to Le Longanier. In this French colonial house, we are welcomed with refreshments and enjoy musicians and singers performing traditional Vietnamese songs in their ancestral attire. 

Others choose to glide through a floating market to soak in the local life, stopping at some cottage industries along the way. All excursions are included in the price, and most of the ones we choose are excellent. The days on the river unfold, and we enjoy our tranquil ship with its inviting restaurant and fine dining choices, including specially themed lunches and dinners. One lunch features ‘crawly critters’, a delicacy here. We are offered tarantulas, beetles, crickets and other bugs! Some taste them and find them delicious – not I! There are various sizes of tables, meeting people is easy with open seating, and the food is delicious! We are a mix of Australians, New Zealanders, Americans, Europeans, and a few Canadians. Everyone is lovely, and we quickly make friends. The Scenic Spirit features a delightful pool deck that offers shade and proves very popular, even in the rainy season of September, when it can be quite hot. The pool is welcoming, and the atmosphere is very relaxing. There is a top deck where we see some cultural performances, which are most enjoyable. Early in the cruise, we are graced with a performance of the Lion Dance by local teenagers, many of whom are orphans.       

It’s a visual delight, and we are charmed yet again, by these people, who are so proud of their country and their heritage. Other excursions include visiting a fantastic bird sanctuary, where we are paddled in boats, winding our way through small streams to see herons, kingfishers, egrets, and more. We enjoy rickshaw and tuk-tuk rides (you can negotiate the price beforehand) and take small boat cruises along the river and adjoining lakes.

Activities on our sweet ship include a galley tour, cooking demonstrations, games, a movie night, gym and yoga classes, lectures and port talks to prepare us for what’s ahead. We also spend time in the spa, which is fantastic and very inexpensive. One evening, the crew dresses in their country’s ceremonial garb while we enjoy cocktail hour. It’s sometimes sensory overload on this river cruise, but we revel in the atmosphere, the warmth of the people, and the enrichment of our lives. As we arrive in Cambodia, we visit the vibrant, bustling capital, Phnom Penh, with its iconic Royal Palace, traditional Khmer roofs, ornate gilding, and the stunning Silver Pagoda. We also visit the former Royal capital of Oudong, founded in 1601, which is lovely and known for its gorgeous pagodas. We see nuns and monks at the many temples we pass by (here, nuns can be male or female, and mostly the monks do not engage with women), and we must all cover our shoulders and knees. The country is known locally as Kampuchea, and the people are Khmer. We also learn more about their dark history, the Khmer Rouge, and the Killing Fields, and many of us choose to visit them and the Tuol Sleng Museum. 

The history of these two countries, with their tragic pasts and future possibilities, is ever-present in our minds. As we disembark our ship, we drive over five hours to the unforgettable and glorious gem that is Siem Reap and the renowned and timeless beauty of Angkor Wat, the largest religious site in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than a thousand temple structures are located around Siem Reap, making it a spectacular destination. We stay three nights at the gorgeous Raffles Hotel, courtesy of Scenic and relax in the delightful grounds and large pool, enjoy drinks in the famed Elephant Bar and luxuriate in the experience. Our visits to remarkable temples, including stunning Angkor Wat, dating from the 12th³Century, amaze us – especially at sunrise, as the sun’s golden rays light up the stonework and are reflected in the water of the surrounding moat. We enjoy strolling on Pub Street, eating local food and engaging with the friendly residents as we shop for silks and mementos. 

Scenic offers a very special Gala Farewell dinner – one of their spectacular Scenic Enrich experiences. We are taken at dusk to Prasat Kraven, a small 10th-century temple consisting of five brick towers on a common terrace. Lit torches guide us towards the temple, where we are first offered refreshments and then a magical dinner as a show featuring Apsara dancers from the candle-lit temple ruins brings us a once-in-a-lifetime experience³ – designed just for Scenic Spirit guests. It is incredibly impressive. Sailing the Mekong on the outstanding Scenic Spirit is an enlightening and rewarding experience, with the opportunity to learn so much about the rich tapestry of cultures and flavours of Southeast Asia. It’s a river that offers a unique and memorable sensibility, and above all, it’s about the people who have warmly welcomed and hosted us along the way.                         

Written by Vanessa Lee for Cruise and Travel Lifestyles (Fall 2025)