Springtime on the Danube

A fabulous luxury river cruise on the lovely Danube with superb cuisine and impeccable service.
VANESSA LEE
 

It was late April in Vienna when we boarded our fabulous Riverside Luxury Cruises river ship for a 7-day cruise along the Danube towards Slovakia and Hungary. We love this brand, having sailed with them in France on the Riverside Ravel a year previously. Our anticipation of this cruise on the larger, double-wide Riverside Mozart, was well met by the staff and crew who provided all guests with impeccable, charming and truly delightful service, especially in the restaurants. Riverside is an ultra-luxury line and has quickly become synonymous with refined, boutique-style sailing on Europe’s iconic waterways and nowhere is this more evident than on their flagship, the Riverside Mozart. Originally built for ultra-luxury cruising and later relaunched under the Riverside banner, the Mozart offers exceptionally generous public spaces, gorgeous, elegant décor, and all-suite accommodation, with even the smaller suites starting around 215 feet. There are no more than 162 guests, with 82 exceptional staff, ensuring attentive, personalized service and a butler for every suite.

As you slowly glide along the ever-lovely Danube, the contemporary comforts of the ship are close by. A chic spa complete with sauna and steam room, a jet pool and whirlpool, a well-equipped fittness centre, and multiple dining venues showcase regionally inspired, chef-driven cuisine. I cannot say enough about the quality of the food and how delicious it was – the best I have had on a river cruise anywhere. Everything was overseen by the amazing Sonia Gruber, the ship’s Hotel Director, who really knows her stuff and ensured, that things always ran smoothly, that the flower garden on the upper deck (a charming addition) was well watered and that guests were happy whatever they happened to be doing. The executive chef, Johannes, and his team use the herbs and flowers in their cuisine, and they take time to prepare perfect dishes that taste sublime. If you want something slightly different from the menu, they will invariably provide it.

Riverside takes a different look at river cruising, combining itineraries for guests and also offering shorter cruises if preferred. We sailed from wonderful Vienna (worth a stay of several days), round-trip for seven days, but others embarked in Vienna and disembarked in Budapest. Equally, some embarked in Budapest and were still sailing when we disembarked a week later. It’s different, more European-centric, and appeals to those with time constraints. In the future, we would like to sail a 10-day cruise with Riverside, as a 7-day cruise is just not enough! We want more pampering, more delicious cuisine, paired with fine wines and more desserts like the daily Eton Mess meringue and cream dessert– a famed British ‘pudding’ that was made a different way each day, much to my delight. The ship offers several dining options to suit your mood. 

The Waterside restaurant offers all meals daily and open seating and is a charming spot. Lunches are mostly buffets, or, as a special treat, a few times each cruise, a Deck BBQ featuring two Green Egg barbecues is offered. These are fun and simply delicious – the top deck of the Mozart is a delightful place to be for drinks at the Vista Bar, relaxing on the comfy furniture, reading or watching the world go by, or as you dig into a great meal. On several days of our cruise, the Deck 3 a” restaurant, Blue, was open for a light lunch and proved very popular for casual fare such as burgers, toasts, sandwiches, and salads. It’s a bonus offering which is very appealing in every way. And you have the riverscape as your dining companion!

Outside the Palm Court lounge and the small Cove Piano Bar, where one enjoys cocktails, entertainment, and port lectures, is the Atelier, a bonus dining area. It’s open for a late-riser’s breakfast most days from 9:30am to 11:30am, and then again from noon through 6 pm, offering small delicacies and light bites. Occasionally, depending on your itinerary, it’s also open for late-night snacks and on two evenings, the staff serves an Austro-Hungarian Dinner as a sharing concept for guests. You can also get their famous waffles here, fresh coffee and other tasty treats. Think of a bistro feel, in an iconic European way. I have sailed the Danube many times and know it well, so I was pleased to enjoy several new ports and excursions with Riverside on this cruise dubbed “Danube Serenade: Iconic Capitals and Wachau Valley”. After a lovely sunny morning sail along the river, we arrived in Hungary, and its former medieval capital, Esztergom. We enjoyed a three- hour guided tour by Julia, a knowledgeable local who gave us a history lesson about this charming town, its gorgeous basilica, the site of many royal coronations, the library and other fascinating spots. It was a wonderful place to visit and a great start to our journey. After dinner, guests enjoyed a great show from the Rockabilly Band – a rock ‘n’ roll band who came on board to rock us!

Onward to Budapest, for a two-night stay and ample time to explore the lovely capital, often called the Paris of the East and another new tour to Sisi’s Palace in Godollo. It was the summer home of the Empress Elisabeth, known as Sisi and her husband, Emperor Franz Josef of Austria and Hungary, and it was fascinating to see all the gorgeous, palatial rooms as they were in the late 1800’s. A special Riverside Signature Event was on the schedule that evening, as guests were taken to Wenckheim Palace for a fabulous Private Champagne Concert, which was thoroughly enjoyable and performed superbly by a talented quintet who wittily sang various light classical tunes. Next up was one of the most enjoyable excursions I have ever experienced. In the company of just a few others, we were taken on one of Mozart’s two tender boats up the river to the picturesque town of Szentendre, often referred to as the Artists’ Village.

 We loved our speedboat ride in both directions and had time to explore the vibrant and idyllic centre of this charming Baroque spot, including some shopping. There are two boats, and they must be booked in advance to secure a place. Another day, we enjoyed more sail time on the river and another super outdoor lunch on the Vista Deck before arriving in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. An array of shore excursions was offered – a Slovakian home visit, undiscovered wines of Slovakia, modern art at the Danubiana Museum and an e-bike tour (which was also offered in virtually every port) later on the ship, guests could participate in a Viennese waltz dance class with some of the opera ballet soloists who performed the traditional Viennese waltz and taught a few steps of this elegant ballroom dance. It was very well attended and most enjoyable.

Next up was Tulln, Austria, as we made our way back to Vienna. We had a fantastic surprise in the morning: a private helicopter tour over the stunning Wachau Valley. Riverside does offer these extra special tours, which are, as you might imagine, quite expensive. They had a late cancellation, so we gladly filled in. The Wachau Valley, which our ship sailed through later in the day, is absolutely gorgeous and seeing it by air made it even more special. It is a 36-km stretch of the Danube in Lower Austria, between Melk and Krems, known for its terraced vineyards, famous and very delicious apricots, medieval castles, and charming villages. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site and a delight to see, whether by air or river. What I love best about river cruising are the bucolic landscapes one gently sails past, with time to sit on deck and take it all in - which we did, in the lovely spring sunshine, toasting our fantastic river experience with Riverside Luxury Cruises on the gorgeous Riverside Mozart. 
 

Written by Vanessa Lee for Cruise & Travel Lifestyles Magazine, Summer 2026 issue